Slowing down opened my eyes to another experience — this time connected with leadership.
The second lesson from Hontanas was exactly about that.
When I entered the 14th-century church, I saw three things:
- A table with drinks and refreshments for pilgrims tired from walking in the heat.
- A notice about the possibility of spending the night in the parish house — in case
the local albergues were closed or had run out of space.
Both were remarkable, given the pandemic restrictions in a country that had been hit
particularly hard only a few months earlier. - Copies of the Bible laid out by the altar in a dozen or so world languages.

Here it doesn’t matter what worldview we hold, what we believe or don’t believe, or what is our relationship with the institution of the Church.
I had no doubt then, and I have none now, that this particular place reflected the leadership of a particular leader — courageous, aligned with values, message, and tradition. It was enough just to walk in and see it. No words or additional declarations were needed.
That experience has stayed with me to this day.
In that small village, another discovery awaited me. But more on that — next time.
